A taste of old Beijing

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The owner of Bin Sheng Lou Restaurant (宾升楼) made a smart move in applying for a name that ranked among Beijing's top eight restaurant brands right after the nation's founding in 1949. But instead of specializing in Shandong cuisine, like the old restaurant did, the eatery now offers both old Beijing foods and some new dishes.

As soon as you are seated at your table, you will see a bottle of tea oil and a bottle of olive oil, besides two books in Chinese about the proper use of ingredients. You can choose the oil you prefer for your fried dishes, and read the books while waiting to be served. The appetizers come in the form of four old-style Beijing dim sums in the following flavors - yellow bean jelly, green bean and red bean pastry, sago juice, and fruits.

The restaurant uses no MSG or additives, says the manager. A bowl of soup served upfront is meant for you to decide how salty you want your dishes to be.

Milk jelly with papaya (木瓜鲜奶) makes for a beautiful starter. The soft and smooth poached kidney beans (芸豆) and mashed Chinese yam roll (山药卷) are other healthy options.

Brown braised pork tied with straw (生态稻草扎肉) is served with steamed bread, and is decidedly non-greasy. There is also the slow boiled bean curd (千滚老豆腐) which has a tougher texture than the usual soft bean curd, but absorbs the flavors of the soup well. The restaurant's Peking roast duck is roasted with glossy ganoderma (灵芝烤鸭), a herb that is believed to be tremendously replenishing. The herb is said to increase immunity and prevent cancer.

Average cost is 50 yuan per person. The restaurant is offering an opening promotion of a 100 yuan return coupon for every 98 yuan and above spent (excluding specially priced dishes, seafood, drinks and private room service charges). Decoration is average Chinese style.

Daily 10:30 am-2 pm, 5-9:30 pm. Jiacheng Square, 29 Dongdajie, Fengtai district. 3 km west of Fengyiqiao, West Third Ring Road. 6377-3386. 丰台区东大街29号嘉诚广场307医院南侧

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